Sotol, Bacanora, and Raicilla Are the Agave Spirits to Try Right Now

Distilling alcohol from agave and other desert plants is a tradition that has deep roots in Mexico. The most well-established examples of agave-based spirits are tequila and mezcal, but the category encompasses a range of other spirits, more and more of which now appear on U.S. restaurant menus and liquor-store shelves. We asked our favorite spirits pros to recommend the best bottles in this emerging category for your home bar.

Bacanora

Bacanora, the agave spirit of Sonora, was banned in 1915 by the teetotaling governor of the state, Plutarco Elías Calles; it wasn’t legalized again until 1992. Because of that, its production has stayed small-scale and traditional to this day: Agave is harvested and processed by hand, rather than through industrial methods. Unlike sotol and raicilla, which usually have fruitier flavors, bacanora tends to be savory — but decidedly less smoky than most mezcals.

Aguamiel Bacanora ($50)

“This bacanora comes from a part of Sonora known for its extraction of aguamiel, sap of the maguey plant,” says Miguel Vargas, bartender at Chileno Bay Resort & Residences in Los Cabos, Mexico. “Aguamiel smells of caramel with floral and herbal notes and tastes like rich and sweet roasted agave with hints of smoke and earth.”

Rancho Tepúa Bacanora Blanco ($70)

“Rancho Tepúa is lightly smoky with a vegetal and minty flavor profile,” says Allan Tidd of Pescador in Boston. “When bacanora was illegal during Sonoran prohibition, the Contreras family still made bacanora in several hidden distilleries.” Today, Rancho Tepúa is run by Roberto Contreras, fifth-generation maestro vinatero.

Sotol

Flor Del Desierto Cascabel Sotol ($94)

“This is not for the faint of heart,” says Alba Huerta, owner of Julep in Houston. “Master sotolero Gerardo Ruelas replaces the conventional raw poultry used in pechuga-style mezcal with rattlesnake meat for the third distillation of this sotol. The flavor is infinitely complex, with minerality, light smoke, citrus, anise, saline, stone fruit, vanilla, floral, and grassy notes.”

Raicilla

Made in Jalisco, the state in western Mexico that is home to the town of Tequila, raicilla uses the roasted core of agave and is made much like mezcal. But raicilla’s production divides into two different regional designations — de la costa and de la sierra (of the coast and of the mountains, respectively), each made with different agave species. Raicillas typically have flavors that range from floral and citrusy to peppery, smoky, and even notes suggesting baking spices.

Bonete Costa de Jalisco Raicilla ($82)

“Bonete’s raicilla is clean and mineral-driven, with a saline note that transports you seaside to the coast where it comes from,” says Brian Gaskey, beverage director at Mercer Street Hospitality in New York City. “It’s delicious on its own, but if you prefer a cocktail, try it in a margarita or even with tonic water.”

Cumbrita de la Sierra Lechuguilla Raicilla ($99)

“Raicilla so smooth you’d never imagine it was nearly 100 proof,” says Marlene Olarra, beverage director at Nativo in Highland Park, California. “It’s made in Batopilas, Chihuahua, where the term ‘lechuguilla’ refers to both the plant, Agave shrevei, and its distillate. It tastes of pears and pepper, with a grassy, mineral finish.”

La Venenosa Costa de Jalisco Raicilla ($100)

“This is my favorite distillery in Jalisco,” says Christopher Reyes, beverage director and partner of Aldama in Brooklyn. Reyes loves La Venenosa’s Costa de Jalisco Raicilla, a softer agave spirit filled with orchard fruit and white pepper notes. “I enjoy drinking it neat, but it also goes really well in a cocktail with pineapple.”