Chef Edgar Rico Has Seen People Brought to Tears by Texas Brisket — Here’s Where to Find It

Austin has been a culinary destination for years, but thanks to chefs like Edgar Rico, the city is really starting to find its voice. The city has long been hailed as having the best barbecue in Texas, and the taco scene there is unmatched (including Rico’s concept, Nixta, currently operating as a pop-up and food truck). “We are a city that has a diversity of flavors and communities that are represented from all parts of the world,” adds the 2023 F&W Best New Chef. “There is such a sense of camaraderie amongst us that you don’t often see in other cities.”

Rico is a member of the Taco Mafia, a collection of top-notch taquerias all located within blocks of each other. “Even though we serve tacos, we know each of our styles are so unique that we don’t look at each other as competition,” he says. “We all share ways to help our business thrive, and I feel like that is rare.”

From Tex-Mex to Tokyo-style ramen, here are Rico’s favorite places to eat and drink in Austin. 

The power of the brisket

“The most famous dish in Austin is the brisket from Franklin Barbecue. The level of craftsmanship and consistency that Aaron Franklin is able to make day in and day out is something I really admire. The dish is literally just three ingredients, but it is the divine simplicity of it, the technique used, and cooking it in an offset smoker that gives it that rich umami bomb that has made people cry. Trust me, I’ve seen it before.”

Start the day right

“For breakfast, I like something really light that still packs a punch. A place my wife and co-owner of Nixta, Sara Mardanbigi, and I enjoy is Paperboy. It’s near our house, and it’s like a diner but a little more refined. You can find all your classics, like hash browns, pancakes, and eggs, but most times, I find myself ordering their lox plate and an Aperol spritz. For me, that is the perfect breakfast.”

Corny cake

“Our neighbor, Mariela Camacho, owns a bakery called Comadre Panadería. She bakes all the classic pan dulce I grew up with but puts her own spin on it and will make seasonally flavored conchas based on what’s peaking at the farmers market. My favorite thing from her is her pink corn cake, which has strawberry frosting atop some [wildly] delicious corn cake with fresh pieces of corn inside. It’s my go-to for birthdays or celebrations because it’s just so delicious and special.”

Freshly baked

“Sour Duck Market makes some of the best baguettes in the city. They have a perfect crunchy exterior with a nice pillowy inside. Freshly baked out of the oven with some jam on it, the baguettes are absolute perfection.”

Tipsy tamarind

“My go-to cocktail in the city is the Don Dario from Suerte. It is essentially a margarita, but they add some tamarind to it, which gives it another layer of acidity and sweetness. On a hot summer Austin day, it’s so refreshing.”

Wine geeks

“The wine list at Birdie’s is incredible. Arjav Ezekiel is the co-owner and sommelier, and he curates the list, which is always changing. I always drink varietals that are new to me or regions that I didn’t even know grew wine. I always feel like I get a whole wealth of knowledge every time I visit, and I love that about him. He geeks out on the wine just like I geek out on the food.”

A night in Japan

“Domo Alley-Gato Tatsu-Ya has one of those patios that transports you to another place. You feel like you are in an alley somewhere in Japan. It is such a vibe back there and a place you can go to escape from Austin for a bit while slurping some ramen noodles and drinking an ice-cold Kirin.”

Shop local

“H-E-B is definitely a staple that Texans swear by. I cannot deny that their fresh butter tortillas are absolutely magnificent. They also have a more upscale version called Central Market, which is my go-to. They have an unmatched produce section where you can find whatever ingredients your heart desires. The meat department there is superb with high-quality products — the majority of them are from local Texas ranchers and farmers.”

Sushi and a show

“I really enjoy sushi, and chef Yoshi Okai from Otoko is a master at his craft. His seared hamachi is the best bite in the city, but the whole vibe of the 12-seat omakase room is where you get to witness dinner and a show. You watch the craftsmanship of Yoshi and his team as they curate an [incredible] 12-course menu with a beautiful sake selection. My wife and I love going whenever we get the opportunity.”

A place for po’boys

“Épicerie is such a gem. They do a play on French classics with a nod to Louisiana, which is where chef Sarah McIntosh is from. She makes all baked goods and breads from scratch daily, but the shrimp po’boy and mussels are a must when visiting. It’s such a cool space that feels really homey and comfortable.”

Tex-Mex forever

“Matt’s El Rancho is an institution serving classic Tex-Mex food. The Bob Armstrong Dip is the best queso in the city, hands down, and the service is always great. They seat hundreds of people a night, but they always deliver a consistent and super fast service that feels genuine and puts you at ease. The energy is amazing.”